crochet baby (to about age 6) legwarmers {or armwarmers for age 6+}
Little Legs:
Yarn, sport weight
Size F hook
No actual gauge.
Ch40, join in a ring being careful not to twist the chain.
Cuff:
R1 Ch2, dc in next chain and in each around, join
R2 Slst around ch2, ch2 (count as fpdc), work bpdc around next dc, (work fpdc around next dc, work bpdc around next dc)repeat around, join w/slst in ch2
R3 Repeat previous row twice more OO
Body:
R4 Ch2, dc in next st and in each st around , join w/slst in ch2
R5 Repeat previous row 19 times more OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
R6 Ch2, decrease next 2 sts together, work dc in each st around to last 2, decrease next 2 sts together, join w/slst in ch2
R7 Repeat previous row 3 times more OOO
Cuff:
R8 Ch2, dc in each st around, join w/slst in ch2
R9 Slst around ch2, ch2 (count as fpdc), work bpdc around next dc, (work fpdc around next dc, work bpdc around next dc)repeat around, join w/slst in ch2
R10 Repeat previous row twice more. OO
Bind off and weave in ends.
Note:
For stripes, I have found that I prefer to have 3 round stripes in the body…single rounds either left a LOT of tails to weave in when cut, or not as much stretch when carried
For the cream baby headband pictured above:
CH 70 (add length by 2's for a larger headband) and join in a loop, being careful not to twist the chain.
R1 ch 2 (count as first dc) and dc in each ch around, join with a slst in the top of ch2.
R2 slst around ch2, ch2, work bpdc around next dc, work fpdc around next dc, work bpdc around next dc), continue around, and join with a sl st in the top of ch 2.
R3+ Repeat round 2 for desired width, bind off, weave in ends. Decorate as desired. The example is decorated with a 6 petaled freeform flower and a shank button.
*example features a baby newsboy hat...this pattern will be added later :)
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Tuesday, December 9, 2008
Wednesday, December 3, 2008
UPDATE: Correction in Little Fire Pants pattern
I have made a correction to the Little Fire Pants pattern (link in list at left of screen). Thanks again to my wool soaker group mamas...you ladies rock! If you have printed out the pattern already, please print out the updated version. There was an error in the large and extra large sizes that required a rewrite of the short row section. I apologize for any inconveniences...happy crocheting!!
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Thursday, November 20, 2008
The Gabi baby dress...
Written for size 12mos.
Size F crochet hook for dress, D for buttons
Sport weight yarn (example used knit Picks Shine Sport 60% Pima Cotton, 40% Modal® natural beech wood fiber...chosen because it is super soft and does not shrink)
Gauge aprox. 5 sts and 5 rows per inch in sc.
Pattern is worked bottom up
Skirt
Chain 156
Join in a loop being careful not to twist the chain.
1 ch2 (count as first dc) dc in each chain around and join with a slst at the top of ch2
2 slip stitch around ch2 (count as fpdc (front post double crochet), ch2, dc in back loops of next 2 dc, (fpdc next dc, dc in back loops of next 2 dc) repeat around and join to the top of ch2.
3 Repeat line #2 for 10 inches.
4 slip stitch around ch2, ch1, sc decrease next 2 sts together through back loops only, (fpsc (front post single crochet) , sc decrease next 2 sts together through back loops only), repeat around, and join with a slst at the ch1
5 ch1, turn, sc in same and next 3 sts, (decrease next 2 sts together. Sc in next 4 sc’s), repeat around and join with a slst in the top of first sc.
Yoke
6 ch1 turn, sc in each st around
7 Repeat line #6 times 12
Left back panel
8 ch1, turn, work 17 scs
9 ch1, turn, decrease next 2 sts together, work sc across
10 Ch1, turn, sc across 16
11 Repeat lines 9 & 10 twice more (you should end up with 14 scs)
12 Ch1, turn, sc 13
13 Ch1 turn, decrease next 2 sts together, sc 11
14 Ch1 turn, sc 11
15 Ch1 turn decrease next 2 sts together, sc 9
16 Ch1 turn, sc 9
17 Ch1 turn, decrease next 2 sts together, sc 7
18 Ch1 turn sc 8
19 Repeat line #18 times 4 and bind off
Back Right panel
20 With right side facing. Join yarn with a slip stitch in the 17th st from edge and work 17 sc’s
21 Ch1 turn work 15 scs, decrease next 2 sts together
22 Ch1 turn sc across 16
23 Repeat lines #21 and #22 twice more
24 Ch1 turn sc 13 decrease next 2 sts together
25 Ch1 turn decrease next 2 sts together, sc across 11
26 Ch1 turn sc 11
27 Ch1 turn decrease next 2 sts together, sc across 9
28 Ch1 turn sc9
29 Ch1 turn decrease next 2 sts together, sc across 7
30 Ch1 turn sc 8
31 Repeat row #29 times 4 and bind off
Front Panel
32 with right side facing, join yarn with a slip stitch in the 3rd ch from back left panel, sc across, leaving 2 free stitches before the back right panel.
33 Ch 1 turn, decrease next 2 sts together, sc across to last 2, decrease next 2 sts together
34 Ch1 turn, sc across
35 Repeat line #33
Front right shoulder
36 ch1 turn sc 10
37 Ch1 turn decrease next 2 sts together, sc across
38 Ch1 turn sc 9
39 Ch1 turn decrease next 2 sts together, sc across
40 Ch1 turn sc 8
41 Repeat row #36 times 5 bind off
Front left shoulder
42 skip 4 stitches from right front shoulder panel and join with a slip stitch. Ch1, sc in same st and in next 9
43 ch1 turn sc 8, decrease next 2 sts together
44 Ch1 turn sc across
45 Ch1 turn sc 7 decrease next 2 sts together
46 Ch1 turn sc 8
47 Repeat row #42 times 5 bind off
Seam shoulders with whip stitch and secure, weave in ends
Yoke trim
48 with right side facing and beginning at the side of back left, join with a slip stitch and work sc’s evenly along back left and neck opening. On right back, work sc ch4, work 5scs, ch4, work 5scs, ch4 work 5scs, ch4, sc remainder of right back , join with a slst to first sc on back left. Bind off and weave in end.
Sleeve trim
49 With right side facing, join with a slip st at armpit, ch1, work sc evenly around opening and join with a slst in first sc
50 Ch1 sc around, join with a slst in first sc
51 Ch1 work reverse sc around and join, bind off, weave in end.
Repeat for other side.
52a Simple skirting edge, working in free loops at the bottom edge of the skirt, join yarn with a slip stitch at the back, ch1, sc in same st and in each st around.
53a Ch1 work reverse single crochet around and join, bind off, weave in end.
Optional waist and bottom ruffles
52b For waist, join yarn with a slip stitch in free loops at the waist. Ch1, Sc evenly around, and join with a slst in the first sc.
53b Ch1 turn, sc ch1 in each st around and join with a slst in the first sc.
54b Ch1 turn sc in ch1 space, ch3 (sc in next ch1 space, ch3) repeat around and join with a slst in first sc
55b Ch1 (work 2 sc in ch3 space, ch3, work 2 more sc in ch 3 space) repeat around and join with a slst in first sc. Bind off…
For bottom repeat as above for first ruffle, sc’ing in the back loops only for round 49b
For second bottom ruffle if you desire, join yarn with a slip stitch at the back, working in the free loops of round 52b left from the first ruffle and repeat rows 52b through 55b. Bind off, weave in all ends.
Buttons…make 4 using D hook
Leaving a long tail, chain 2 and work 5 scs in first ch…do not join round, but continue to sc around for 5 more stitches…bind off…using tapestry needle whip around through both loops of each se, stuff the long cast on tail inside, and pull closed. Make a stitch through the opposite side of the ‘drawstring’ to fully secure and sew the button in place firmly. Weave in end and repeat
back view showing buttons...
© 2008-by Amy O’Holleran: This is my original work, and may not be reproduced for sale without my express permission.
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Size F crochet hook for dress, D for buttons
Sport weight yarn (example used knit Picks Shine Sport 60% Pima Cotton, 40% Modal® natural beech wood fiber...chosen because it is super soft and does not shrink)
Gauge aprox. 5 sts and 5 rows per inch in sc.
Pattern is worked bottom up
Skirt
Chain 156
Join in a loop being careful not to twist the chain.
1 ch2 (count as first dc) dc in each chain around and join with a slst at the top of ch2
2 slip stitch around ch2 (count as fpdc (front post double crochet), ch2, dc in back loops of next 2 dc, (fpdc next dc, dc in back loops of next 2 dc) repeat around and join to the top of ch2.
3 Repeat line #2 for 10 inches.
4 slip stitch around ch2, ch1, sc decrease next 2 sts together through back loops only, (fpsc (front post single crochet) , sc decrease next 2 sts together through back loops only), repeat around, and join with a slst at the ch1
5 ch1, turn, sc in same and next 3 sts, (decrease next 2 sts together. Sc in next 4 sc’s), repeat around and join with a slst in the top of first sc.
Yoke
6 ch1 turn, sc in each st around
7 Repeat line #6 times 12
Left back panel
8 ch1, turn, work 17 scs
9 ch1, turn, decrease next 2 sts together, work sc across
10 Ch1, turn, sc across 16
11 Repeat lines 9 & 10 twice more (you should end up with 14 scs)
12 Ch1, turn, sc 13
13 Ch1 turn, decrease next 2 sts together, sc 11
14 Ch1 turn, sc 11
15 Ch1 turn decrease next 2 sts together, sc 9
16 Ch1 turn, sc 9
17 Ch1 turn, decrease next 2 sts together, sc 7
18 Ch1 turn sc 8
19 Repeat line #18 times 4 and bind off
Back Right panel
20 With right side facing. Join yarn with a slip stitch in the 17th st from edge and work 17 sc’s
21 Ch1 turn work 15 scs, decrease next 2 sts together
22 Ch1 turn sc across 16
23 Repeat lines #21 and #22 twice more
24 Ch1 turn sc 13 decrease next 2 sts together
25 Ch1 turn decrease next 2 sts together, sc across 11
26 Ch1 turn sc 11
27 Ch1 turn decrease next 2 sts together, sc across 9
28 Ch1 turn sc9
29 Ch1 turn decrease next 2 sts together, sc across 7
30 Ch1 turn sc 8
31 Repeat row #29 times 4 and bind off
Front Panel
32 with right side facing, join yarn with a slip stitch in the 3rd ch from back left panel, sc across, leaving 2 free stitches before the back right panel.
33 Ch 1 turn, decrease next 2 sts together, sc across to last 2, decrease next 2 sts together
34 Ch1 turn, sc across
35 Repeat line #33
Front right shoulder
36 ch1 turn sc 10
37 Ch1 turn decrease next 2 sts together, sc across
38 Ch1 turn sc 9
39 Ch1 turn decrease next 2 sts together, sc across
40 Ch1 turn sc 8
41 Repeat row #36 times 5 bind off
Front left shoulder
42 skip 4 stitches from right front shoulder panel and join with a slip stitch. Ch1, sc in same st and in next 9
43 ch1 turn sc 8, decrease next 2 sts together
44 Ch1 turn sc across
45 Ch1 turn sc 7 decrease next 2 sts together
46 Ch1 turn sc 8
47 Repeat row #42 times 5 bind off
Seam shoulders with whip stitch and secure, weave in ends
Yoke trim
48 with right side facing and beginning at the side of back left, join with a slip stitch and work sc’s evenly along back left and neck opening. On right back, work sc ch4, work 5scs, ch4, work 5scs, ch4 work 5scs, ch4, sc remainder of right back , join with a slst to first sc on back left. Bind off and weave in end.
Sleeve trim
49 With right side facing, join with a slip st at armpit, ch1, work sc evenly around opening and join with a slst in first sc
50 Ch1 sc around, join with a slst in first sc
51 Ch1 work reverse sc around and join, bind off, weave in end.
Repeat for other side.
52a Simple skirting edge, working in free loops at the bottom edge of the skirt, join yarn with a slip stitch at the back, ch1, sc in same st and in each st around.
53a Ch1 work reverse single crochet around and join, bind off, weave in end.
Optional waist and bottom ruffles
52b For waist, join yarn with a slip stitch in free loops at the waist. Ch1, Sc evenly around, and join with a slst in the first sc.
53b Ch1 turn, sc ch1 in each st around and join with a slst in the first sc.
54b Ch1 turn sc in ch1 space, ch3 (sc in next ch1 space, ch3) repeat around and join with a slst in first sc
55b Ch1 (work 2 sc in ch3 space, ch3, work 2 more sc in ch 3 space) repeat around and join with a slst in first sc. Bind off…
For bottom repeat as above for first ruffle, sc’ing in the back loops only for round 49b
For second bottom ruffle if you desire, join yarn with a slip stitch at the back, working in the free loops of round 52b left from the first ruffle and repeat rows 52b through 55b. Bind off, weave in all ends.
Buttons…make 4 using D hook
Leaving a long tail, chain 2 and work 5 scs in first ch…do not join round, but continue to sc around for 5 more stitches…bind off…using tapestry needle whip around through both loops of each se, stuff the long cast on tail inside, and pull closed. Make a stitch through the opposite side of the ‘drawstring’ to fully secure and sew the button in place firmly. Weave in end and repeat
back view showing buttons...
© 2008-by Amy O’Holleran: This is my original work, and may not be reproduced for sale without my express permission.
Friday, October 31, 2008
Little Fire Crochet Soaker Updated!!
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
Little Fire Crochet Pants
At long last it is done!! I have finally (with a little beta testing help from my friends at the wool soaker group)finished the Little Fire Crochet Pants! This pattern is written in four sizes (and I plan on adding XL to the original Little Fire Crochet Soaker pattern as well) Soooo...without further ado, here it is....
(I have had a few people mention that they were having trouble getting the waistbands of the Little Fire wooly patterns loose enough to have enough stretch, even when using a larger hook for the foundation. I have found the answer...the no-chain foundation!! If you go here No Chain and scroll down to the bottom of the page, you will find pictorial instructions for doing the No Chain Double Crochet. Work this technique to length (one less dc than the number of dc's called for in the pattern) in place of the foundation chain and first row of dc in both Little Fire Patterns.
I tried it out myself on the Pirate shorties I made for my son (incorporating a little stranding for a bit of fun) and it worked out fabulously. There is a small V at the join when following this technique, but it is easily stitched closed with the tail. The resulting stretchy waistband top is wonderful!)
Little Fire Soaker Pants
This pattern is worked with worsted weight wool yarn
Hook size G, Gauge 4 stitches per inch, 4 rows per inch in sc, or whatever hook you need to maintain gauge.
All Sizing is Approximate:
SMALL= WEIGHT 11-17 lbs WAIST 12-20 in. THIGHS 7-12 in. RISE 15-16 in. INSEAM 7 in.
MEDIUM= WEIGHT 15-22 lbs WAIST 12.5-20 in. THIGHS 8-13 in. RISE 17-18in. INSEAM 9 in.
LARGE= WEIGHT 20-26 lbs WAIST 13-22 in. THIGHS 9-14 in. RISE 19-20 in. INSEAM 11 in.
X-LARGE= WEIGHT 24-30 lbs WAIST 14-24 in. THIGHS 9-15 in. RISE 21-22 in. INSEAM 13 in.
Chain 56 loosely (64, 72, 80) Join in a loop with a slip stitch, being sure not to twist the chain
Row 1 CH 2 (count as first DC) DC in each SC around , join with a SLST in the top of the CH 2
Row 2-3 SLST around CH 2 of row 1, CH 2, *BPDC around next st, FPDC around next st* repeat around and join with a SLST in the top of the Ch 2. (Bind off if you plan on using a different color for the body of the soaker, otherwise continue on to Row 4.)
Row 4 (If starting a new color, join with a SLST in the first DC) CH 1, SC in same st, and in next 2 sts, 2 SC in next st, *SC in next 3 sts , 2 SC in next st*, repeat *-*{14(16, 18, 20) increases} around for a total of 70(80, 90, 100)
Row 5 Ch1, turn, SC in each stitch around, join with slip stitch in first SC. 70(80, 90, 100)
Row 6-8 Repeat row 5
Row 9 CH1, turn, SC in first 2(3, 4, 5) st, HDC in next 4(5, 6, 7) sts , DC in in next 23(24, 25, 26) sts, HDC in next 4(5, 6, 7) sts, SC in remaining 37 (43, 49, 55) sts, join with SLST to first SC.
Row 10-25 Repeat Rows 6-9 4 times for small, 5 times for medium, 6 times for large, and 7 times for extra-large. -70(80, 90, 100)scs
(For a longer rise, add additional repeat(s) of rows 6-9 here)
Row 26 repeat row 6 once more, bind off
Gusset
count over 20(24 ,27, 30) stitches from the beginning of round and join a new yarn with a SLST (working on the wrong side of the fabric)...ch1, sc in same and next 5(7, 9, 11) sts
*ch1, turn, sc 6(8, 10, 12) * rep 2 (4, 6, 8) times more, ...whipstitch to backside, making sure leg openings are equal…stitch count of 29(32, 35, 38) free stitches /per leg
Join yarn for leg in any st (I prefer to join at the inseam) sc around in each sc, and into each st at the gusset 35(40, 45, 50)scs NOTE* Be sure you a crocheting in the opposite direction from the previous row.
Row 27-54(62, 70, 78) CH1, turn work 35(40, 45, 50)SCs
###repeat 1/2 as many rounds for shorts###
***repeat 2/3 as many rounds for Capris***
+++option do a sc, 2sc pattern around for flared cuff+++
Bind off. Repeat for other leg, weave in ends, trim, Voila!
You can add your favorite style of drawstring at the waist if you desire.
Pattern updated 12/3/08
© 2008-by Amy O’Holleran: This is my original work, and may not be reproduced for sale without my express permission.
This pair of Little Fire pants was done by yahoo wool soaker group member Becky :) Thanks to her for the use of these pics ;)
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(I have had a few people mention that they were having trouble getting the waistbands of the Little Fire wooly patterns loose enough to have enough stretch, even when using a larger hook for the foundation. I have found the answer...the no-chain foundation!! If you go here No Chain and scroll down to the bottom of the page, you will find pictorial instructions for doing the No Chain Double Crochet. Work this technique to length (one less dc than the number of dc's called for in the pattern) in place of the foundation chain and first row of dc in both Little Fire Patterns.
I tried it out myself on the Pirate shorties I made for my son (incorporating a little stranding for a bit of fun) and it worked out fabulously. There is a small V at the join when following this technique, but it is easily stitched closed with the tail. The resulting stretchy waistband top is wonderful!)
Little Fire Soaker Pants
This pattern is worked with worsted weight wool yarn
Hook size G, Gauge 4 stitches per inch, 4 rows per inch in sc, or whatever hook you need to maintain gauge.
All Sizing is Approximate:
SMALL= WEIGHT 11-17 lbs WAIST 12-20 in. THIGHS 7-12 in. RISE 15-16 in. INSEAM 7 in.
MEDIUM= WEIGHT 15-22 lbs WAIST 12.5-20 in. THIGHS 8-13 in. RISE 17-18in. INSEAM 9 in.
LARGE= WEIGHT 20-26 lbs WAIST 13-22 in. THIGHS 9-14 in. RISE 19-20 in. INSEAM 11 in.
X-LARGE= WEIGHT 24-30 lbs WAIST 14-24 in. THIGHS 9-15 in. RISE 21-22 in. INSEAM 13 in.
Chain 56 loosely (64, 72, 80) Join in a loop with a slip stitch, being sure not to twist the chain
Row 1 CH 2 (count as first DC) DC in each SC around , join with a SLST in the top of the CH 2
Row 2-3 SLST around CH 2 of row 1, CH 2, *BPDC around next st, FPDC around next st* repeat around and join with a SLST in the top of the Ch 2. (Bind off if you plan on using a different color for the body of the soaker, otherwise continue on to Row 4.)
Row 4 (If starting a new color, join with a SLST in the first DC) CH 1, SC in same st, and in next 2 sts, 2 SC in next st, *SC in next 3 sts , 2 SC in next st*, repeat *-*{14(16, 18, 20) increases} around for a total of 70(80, 90, 100)
Row 5 Ch1, turn, SC in each stitch around, join with slip stitch in first SC. 70(80, 90, 100)
Row 6-8 Repeat row 5
Row 9 CH1, turn, SC in first 2(3, 4, 5) st, HDC in next 4(5, 6, 7) sts , DC in in next 23(24, 25, 26) sts, HDC in next 4(5, 6, 7) sts, SC in remaining 37 (43, 49, 55) sts, join with SLST to first SC.
Row 10-25 Repeat Rows 6-9 4 times for small, 5 times for medium, 6 times for large, and 7 times for extra-large. -70(80, 90, 100)scs
(For a longer rise, add additional repeat(s) of rows 6-9 here)
Row 26 repeat row 6 once more, bind off
Gusset
count over 20(24 ,27, 30) stitches from the beginning of round and join a new yarn with a SLST (working on the wrong side of the fabric)...ch1, sc in same and next 5(7, 9, 11) sts
*ch1, turn, sc 6(8, 10, 12) * rep 2 (4, 6, 8) times more, ...whipstitch to backside, making sure leg openings are equal…stitch count of 29(32, 35, 38) free stitches /per leg
Join yarn for leg in any st (I prefer to join at the inseam) sc around in each sc, and into each st at the gusset 35(40, 45, 50)scs NOTE* Be sure you a crocheting in the opposite direction from the previous row.
Row 27-54(62, 70, 78) CH1, turn work 35(40, 45, 50)SCs
###repeat 1/2 as many rounds for shorts###
***repeat 2/3 as many rounds for Capris***
+++option do a sc, 2sc pattern around for flared cuff+++
Bind off. Repeat for other leg, weave in ends, trim, Voila!
You can add your favorite style of drawstring at the waist if you desire.
Pattern updated 12/3/08
© 2008-by Amy O’Holleran: This is my original work, and may not be reproduced for sale without my express permission.
This pair of Little Fire pants was done by yahoo wool soaker group member Becky :) Thanks to her for the use of these pics ;)
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Taken the Etsy plunge...
So many people have told me over the years that I should sell my stuff...well, I'm finally doing it. A week ago last Friday I officially opened an Etsy. It took me months to get up the guts and just DO it already. So far so good...I'm starting to get the sort of assortment of stock (and crafting options) that interest me...I don't want to be stuck doing one sort of thing and end up being BORED out of my skull, LOL. My linky is Tangled Skeins So the name is no surprise, LOL...it fits me on so many levels ;) I have installed the mini Etsy widget here at WaTS...it is on the left side if you scroll down a bit. It just gives you a few examples of what I have in stock. At the moment I have several super soft Minkee pocket bibs, travel sized wet bags, fashion scarves, a hat, a fulled bag, and a Waldorf inspired rag doll. I have quite a few other things in the works, including some more hats, gauntlets, wool diaper soakers, and stuffed toys. Please keep me in mind when you are looking for items hand made with a lot of love.
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Friday, September 19, 2008
Solareveil Ring Sling
I was ecstatic today to receive my long awaited solareveil. Thanks very much to Stacey at Bella Junction! This amazing fabric is super lightweight, and fast drying, making it ideal for the pool, beach, or shower. Top that off with amazing sun protection properties...it blocks out 70/80 % of UVA and UVB rays with a single layer, and 90/95% with a double layer. Makes you really wonder why the company doesn't manufacture it anymore. Here's hoping they change their minds! With an ever dwindling supply available, I can't even express how glad I am to finally get my hands on some, LOL. No sooner was the fabric out of the box than I set to making a couple of rings slings. I decided to make two single layer slings, and gift one to my SIL for her to use with my little nephew. I made the tail into a little sun hood, rather than just leaving it loose or tapering the end. I found the fabric very easy to work with, and I am looking forward to testing it out at my nearly-niece's bithday party at the lake next weekend.
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Wednesday, September 17, 2008
MMMM Minkee Mei Tei!
I made myself a new Mei Tei today, as I intend to gift the denim one (pic here) I made a few months back to my SIL. This one is reversable, with 2 layers of ultra yummy Minkee...Green on one side, and Aqua on the other. It is sooo cozy. DS was rubbing his cheeks on it and grinning when we tried it on earlier :) Too sweet. I eliminated the rounded top, as that is one part of the previous pattern that I failed to see the need for. Instead I cut the top corners off at a 45 degree angle, and just left the top straight.
ETA...an action shot was requested...so bumbumdebum...
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ETA...an action shot was requested...so bumbumdebum...
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Tuesday, September 2, 2008
"Black Apple" Ballerina dolly
Mady's little friend (another Madison) had a birthday this weekend. Since my budget is still rebounding from the hit it took for back to school last month, I couldn't really afford to buy anything new. A couple days earier I had seen an episode of Martha Stewart where they made some really cute dolls. http://www.marthastewart.com/article/black-apple-doll I didn't exactly follow the pattern...it calls for you to blow up the pattern 150%, but I just wanted to make a cute little doll, not a big one. I kept the pattern as printed, added a circle skirt tutu, drew on some slippers, sewed on some ribbons and beads, and drew on a little face. Mady was thrilled with it.
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Tuesday, August 19, 2008
'Just a Tam Minute' Hat
It's finally done! I really love how this pattern turned out, and can't wait to make more. I ran out of the black crochet cotton I was using for the body of the hat, so I switched to a remanent of tweed thread I had sitting in the bottom of my yarn bin. (I scored 5 skeins of the stuff YEARS ago at a yard sale, and am down now to the tiniest little bit!)
The 'Just a Tam Minute' Hat:
Size 10 crochet cotton
1 / 2.75mm hook
Ch4 and join in a loop
R1 Ch1, work 11 sc into the loop and join with a slip stitch in the ch1
R2 Ch2, dc in same st, 2 dc in next st and in each st around, join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R3 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R4 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R5 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc, * 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in next dc* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R6 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R7 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)twice, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)twice* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R8 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc )twice, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc)twice* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R9 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)3 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)3 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R10 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc )3 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc)3 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R11 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)4 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)4 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R12 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc )4 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc)3 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R13 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)5 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)5 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R14 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc )5 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc)5 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R15 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)6 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)6 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R16 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc )6 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc)6 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R17 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)7 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)7 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R18 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc )7 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc)7 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R19 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)8 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)8 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R20 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc )8 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc)8 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R21 Ch3, skip 1 dc, dc in next dc *ch1 skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the second ch of the initial ch3.
R22 Ch2 *dc in the ch 1 space, and in the next dc* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R23 Ch3, skip 1 dc, dc in next dc *ch1 skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the second ch of the initial ch3.
R24 Ch2, dc decrease the next 2 stitches together {yo, insert hook into ch 1 space, yo and draw up a loop, insert hook into dc, yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through 3 loops on hook, yo and draw through remaining 2}, (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc)9 times (18 dc’s), *work decrease, (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc)9 times* Repeat **9 times, work decrease, (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc)8 times, dc in next ch 1 space and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R25 Ch2, *decrease next 2 dc’s together, dc in next dc (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next)8 times* Repeat ** 10 times, decrease next 2 dc’s together, dc in next dc (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next)7 times, ch1, and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R26 Ch2, *decrease the next 2 dc’s together, (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc)8 times (16 dc’s)*, Repeat ** 10 times, decrease the next 2 dc’s together, (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc)7 times, dc in next ch 1 space and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R27 Ch2, *decrease next 2 dc’s together, dc in next dc (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next)7 times* Repeat ** 10 times, decrease next 2 dc’s together, dc in next dc (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next)6 times, ch1, and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R28 Ch2, *decrease the next 2 dc’s together, (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc)7 times (16 dc’s)*, Repeat ** 10 times, decrease the next 2 dc’s together, (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc)6 times, dc in next ch 1 space and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R29 Ch2, *decrease next 2 dc’s together, dc in next dc (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next)6 times* Repeat ** 10 times, decrease next 2 dc’s together, dc in next dc (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next)5 times, ch1, and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R30 Ch1, *sc decrease next 2 st together, , (sc in ch1 space, sc in dc)6 times* Repeat ** 10 times, sc decrease next 2 st together, , (sc in ch1 space, sc in dc)5 times, sc in ch1 space, and join with a slip stitch in the ch1
R31 Ch1, *decrease next 2 stitches together, sc in next 11 sc* 10 times, decrease next 2 stitches together, sc in next 10 sc, and join with a slip stitch in the initial ch1
R32 Ch1 *decrease next 2 stitches together, sc in next 10 sc* 10 times, decrease next 2 stitches together, sc in next 10 sc, and join with a slip stitch in the initial ch1
R33 Ch1 *decrease next 2 stitches together, sc in next 9 sc* 10 times, decrease next 2 stitches together, sc in next 8 sc, and join with a slip stitch in the initial ch1
R34-36 Ch1, sc in each sc around and join with a slip stitch in the initial ch1
Bind off, weave in ends, and voila!
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The 'Just a Tam Minute' Hat:
Size 10 crochet cotton
1 / 2.75mm hook
Ch4 and join in a loop
R1 Ch1, work 11 sc into the loop and join with a slip stitch in the ch1
R2 Ch2, dc in same st, 2 dc in next st and in each st around, join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R3 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R4 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R5 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc, * 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in next dc* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R6 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R7 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)twice, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)twice* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R8 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc )twice, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc)twice* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R9 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)3 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)3 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R10 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc )3 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc)3 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R11 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)4 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)4 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R12 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc )4 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc)3 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R13 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)5 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)5 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R14 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc )5 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc)5 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R15 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)6 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)6 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R16 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc )6 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc)6 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R17 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)7 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)7 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R18 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc )7 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc)7 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R19 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)8 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc)8 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R20 Ch2, dc in same dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc )8 times, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, (dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc)8 times* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R21 Ch3, skip 1 dc, dc in next dc *ch1 skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the second ch of the initial ch3.
R22 Ch2 *dc in the ch 1 space, and in the next dc* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R23 Ch3, skip 1 dc, dc in next dc *ch1 skip 1 dc and dc in the next dc* Repeat around and join with a slip stitch in the second ch of the initial ch3.
R24 Ch2, dc decrease the next 2 stitches together {yo, insert hook into ch 1 space, yo and draw up a loop, insert hook into dc, yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through 3 loops on hook, yo and draw through remaining 2}, (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc)9 times (18 dc’s), *work decrease, (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc)9 times* Repeat **9 times, work decrease, (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc)8 times, dc in next ch 1 space and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R25 Ch2, *decrease next 2 dc’s together, dc in next dc (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next)8 times* Repeat ** 10 times, decrease next 2 dc’s together, dc in next dc (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next)7 times, ch1, and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R26 Ch2, *decrease the next 2 dc’s together, (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc)8 times (16 dc’s)*, Repeat ** 10 times, decrease the next 2 dc’s together, (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc)7 times, dc in next ch 1 space and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R27 Ch2, *decrease next 2 dc’s together, dc in next dc (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next)7 times* Repeat ** 10 times, decrease next 2 dc’s together, dc in next dc (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next)6 times, ch1, and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R28 Ch2, *decrease the next 2 dc’s together, (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc)7 times (16 dc’s)*, Repeat ** 10 times, decrease the next 2 dc’s together, (dc in next ch 1 space, dc in next dc)6 times, dc in next ch 1 space and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R29 Ch2, *decrease next 2 dc’s together, dc in next dc (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next)6 times* Repeat ** 10 times, decrease next 2 dc’s together, dc in next dc (ch1, skip 1 dc and dc in the next)5 times, ch1, and join with a slip stitch in the ch2
R30 Ch1, *sc decrease next 2 st together, , (sc in ch1 space, sc in dc)6 times* Repeat ** 10 times, sc decrease next 2 st together, , (sc in ch1 space, sc in dc)5 times, sc in ch1 space, and join with a slip stitch in the ch1
R31 Ch1, *decrease next 2 stitches together, sc in next 11 sc* 10 times, decrease next 2 stitches together, sc in next 10 sc, and join with a slip stitch in the initial ch1
R32 Ch1 *decrease next 2 stitches together, sc in next 10 sc* 10 times, decrease next 2 stitches together, sc in next 10 sc, and join with a slip stitch in the initial ch1
R33 Ch1 *decrease next 2 stitches together, sc in next 9 sc* 10 times, decrease next 2 stitches together, sc in next 8 sc, and join with a slip stitch in the initial ch1
R34-36 Ch1, sc in each sc around and join with a slip stitch in the initial ch1
Bind off, weave in ends, and voila!
Tuesday, August 5, 2008
Rasta Tam
I've been looking for rasta tam patterns for a long time...I'm currently writing one for crochet thread, but came across this one for worsted weight and had to give it a shot....Modeled by my 13yo, Rasta Tam, crochet using Lana's Tam pattern from the Hippie Crochet and Knit Lovers yahoo group. ( http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HCKL/ ) I used Peace Fleece in the Hemlock colorway, and the cord (twisted, my fave style) is Peace Fleece in the Negotiation Gray colorway.
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Thursday, July 31, 2008
Mady's Groovy Gauntlets
My 5yo dd Mady wanted a pair of the Groovy Gauntlets for herself (my little rockstar) I used the pattern below, sized down by using the tail end of a skein of soft pink 'baby' yarn and a size E crochet hook. I also added 2 rounds of sc at the cuffs using scraps of eyelash yarn. She is totally thrilled.
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Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Groovy Gauntlets
These gauntlets crochet up really fast. The pictured example (with my 13yo dd as a hand model, were crocheted using Peace Fleece in Negotiation Gray
Hook: G
Yarn: Worsted Weight
Chain 30 and join in a loop, being careful not to twist.
R1 Ch2, dc in next ch, and in each ch around, join with a slip st in the second ch.
R2-R11 Ch3, sk1 *dc in next stitch, ch1* Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
((LEFT HAND))
R12-13 Ch3, dc in same st (increase created), ch1, *dc in next dc, ch1* Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R14 Ch3, dc in next dc, ch1, dc in next dc, ch5, skip 2 dc's and dc in 3rd dc (thumb hole created), ch1, *dc in next dc, ch1* Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R15 Ch2, dc in next 2 dc's (decrease created), *ch1, dc in next dc *twice, ch1, dc in 2nd ch of chain space, ch1, sk1 ch, dc in next ch, ch1, dc in dc, ch1, *dc in next dc, ch1* Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R16 Ch3, skip next dc, dc in next dc, ch1, *dc in next dc, ch1* Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R17 Ch2, *dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc* Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R18 Slip stitch around and join, bind off, weave in ends.
((RIGHT HAND))
Work Rounds 1 through 11 the same as above.
R12 Ch3, *dc in next dc, ch1* 3 times, dc ch1 dc in next dc (increase created), ch1 **dc in next dc, ch1** Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R13 Ch3, *dc in next dc, ch1* 4 times, dc ch1 dc in next dc (increase created), ch1, **dc in next dc, ch1** Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R14 Ch3, dc in next dc, ch5, skip 2 dc and dc in 3rd, ch1, *dc in next dc, ch1* Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R15 Ch3, dc in next dc, ch1, dc in 2nd chain, ch1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch, ch1, dc in next 3 dc (decrease created), ch1, dc in next dc, ch1, Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R16 Ch3 *dc in next dc, ch1* 3 times, skip next dc, dc in next dc, ch1, **dc in next dc, ch1** Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R17 Ch2, *dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc* Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R18 Slip stitch around and join, bind off, weave in ends
© 2008-by Amy O’Holleran: This is my original work, and may not be reproduced for sale without my express permission. Pin It
Hook: G
Yarn: Worsted Weight
Chain 30 and join in a loop, being careful not to twist.
R1 Ch2, dc in next ch, and in each ch around, join with a slip st in the second ch.
R2-R11 Ch3, sk1 *dc in next stitch, ch1* Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
((LEFT HAND))
R12-13 Ch3, dc in same st (increase created), ch1, *dc in next dc, ch1* Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R14 Ch3, dc in next dc, ch1, dc in next dc, ch5, skip 2 dc's and dc in 3rd dc (thumb hole created), ch1, *dc in next dc, ch1* Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R15 Ch2, dc in next 2 dc's (decrease created), *ch1, dc in next dc *twice, ch1, dc in 2nd ch of chain space, ch1, sk1 ch, dc in next ch, ch1, dc in dc, ch1, *dc in next dc, ch1* Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R16 Ch3, skip next dc, dc in next dc, ch1, *dc in next dc, ch1* Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R17 Ch2, *dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc* Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R18 Slip stitch around and join, bind off, weave in ends.
((RIGHT HAND))
Work Rounds 1 through 11 the same as above.
R12 Ch3, *dc in next dc, ch1* 3 times, dc ch1 dc in next dc (increase created), ch1 **dc in next dc, ch1** Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R13 Ch3, *dc in next dc, ch1* 4 times, dc ch1 dc in next dc (increase created), ch1, **dc in next dc, ch1** Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R14 Ch3, dc in next dc, ch5, skip 2 dc and dc in 3rd, ch1, *dc in next dc, ch1* Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R15 Ch3, dc in next dc, ch1, dc in 2nd chain, ch1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch, ch1, dc in next 3 dc (decrease created), ch1, dc in next dc, ch1, Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R16 Ch3 *dc in next dc, ch1* 3 times, skip next dc, dc in next dc, ch1, **dc in next dc, ch1** Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R17 Ch2, *dc in ch1 space, dc in next dc* Repeat around and join with a sl st in second ch.
R18 Slip stitch around and join, bind off, weave in ends
© 2008-by Amy O’Holleran: This is my original work, and may not be reproduced for sale without my express permission. Pin It
Saturday, July 26, 2008
BumGenius giveaway
There is a contest to win 12 BumGenius dipes here (BabyCheapskate) Go sign up!
The contest will run through Wednesday, August 6 at midnight, EDT or until there are5000 entries.. Winner will be decided via random drawing and contacted via the email address provided. Open to U.S. residents only. Pin It
The contest will run through Wednesday, August 6 at midnight, EDT or until there are5000 entries.. Winner will be decided via random drawing and contacted via the email address provided. Open to U.S. residents only. Pin It
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
'No Sweat' Water bottle cozies
With a concern for the number of single use water bottles my kids could go through in a given week (recycleable, yes, but sooo wasteful) I've given them all reusable water bottles. In an effort to combat the sweating that happens with any cold beverage, I have worked them up some 'No Sweat" cozies. These are so simple to do.
All were made with different novelty yarns (ribbon, funfur, component yarn)
The first 2 on the left were made by crocheting on size I hook
4chains into a loop, working 2 chains, then working 12 dc's and joining with a slst to form a ring.
Slip stitch to the space between the first 2 dc's, chain 2 and dc in the same space, 2 dc in next space, and around, joining with a slip st.
Slip st to the space between the first 2 dc's, ch3, and dc in the next space, **ch1, dc in next space**, around. join w/ slip st.
Slip the first space between the first 2 dc's, ch3, and dc in the next space, **ch1, dc in next space**, around. join w/ slip st.
Continue in this fashion until the cozy is tall enough to reach the neck of your bottle...it will stretch a bit, so check frequently for size.
Bind off and run a drawstring in and out of the last row of dc's.
The 3rd cozy is also crochet, also on size I, and for the first 2 rounds, is worked the same as above, but instead of continuing in dc's all the way up, ch 5 and sc into the dc spaces, working a couple of slip stitches at the end of each round so that you are starting the next round around the 3rd chain of each ch5 set.. To finish, work a round of **sc, ch1* around the top, then a round of **dc, ch1** ,bind off, weave a drawstring through the final dc row.
The fourth design was worked up on the small blue Knifty Knitter with a boucle yarn. It was a bit of a "collaboration" with my 9yo dd (ie, she did some, mom did most, LOL) She has a thermos style bottle, but still wanted a cozy. We worked about 15 rounds, worked a crochet bind off, adding in a large coordinating hairtie elastic, basically just encasing the elastic within the sc bindoff, cinched the bottom closed and secured it firmly. It just slips over the bottle like a sock, and is held up really will by the elastic, much better for this type of bottle,as it won't slip off too easily.
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All were made with different novelty yarns (ribbon, funfur, component yarn)
The first 2 on the left were made by crocheting on size I hook
4chains into a loop, working 2 chains, then working 12 dc's and joining with a slst to form a ring.
Slip stitch to the space between the first 2 dc's, chain 2 and dc in the same space, 2 dc in next space, and around, joining with a slip st.
Slip st to the space between the first 2 dc's, ch3, and dc in the next space, **ch1, dc in next space**, around. join w/ slip st.
Slip the first space between the first 2 dc's, ch3, and dc in the next space, **ch1, dc in next space**, around. join w/ slip st.
Continue in this fashion until the cozy is tall enough to reach the neck of your bottle...it will stretch a bit, so check frequently for size.
Bind off and run a drawstring in and out of the last row of dc's.
The 3rd cozy is also crochet, also on size I, and for the first 2 rounds, is worked the same as above, but instead of continuing in dc's all the way up, ch 5 and sc into the dc spaces, working a couple of slip stitches at the end of each round so that you are starting the next round around the 3rd chain of each ch5 set.. To finish, work a round of **sc, ch1* around the top, then a round of **dc, ch1** ,bind off, weave a drawstring through the final dc row.
The fourth design was worked up on the small blue Knifty Knitter with a boucle yarn. It was a bit of a "collaboration" with my 9yo dd (ie, she did some, mom did most, LOL) She has a thermos style bottle, but still wanted a cozy. We worked about 15 rounds, worked a crochet bind off, adding in a large coordinating hairtie elastic, basically just encasing the elastic within the sc bindoff, cinched the bottom closed and secured it firmly. It just slips over the bottle like a sock, and is held up really will by the elastic, much better for this type of bottle,as it won't slip off too easily.
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Thursday, July 10, 2008
The "Totally Mindless" Fashion scarf
Sometimes I really don't want to have to pay attention to what I am doing while watching tv or a movie. At those times, I will pull out a ball of fun fuzzy yarn and do some finger knitting. (Usually scored from the $tree or 99cent stores...can't beat those prices!) I learned (a lifetime ago) at summer camp ((Picture a tent garlanded with miles of gaudy yarn tubes, LOL)). For this technique (if you don't know how to finger knit, check out http://www.knitty.com/issuesummer06/FEATfingerknitting.html ) I don't use all 4 fingers like you normally would, but just 2. I "knit" the entire ball into a long (and much thicker) strand, then "knit" the resulting strand, again using just 2 fingers. I weave in the tails that are left from the first "knit-through", and voila!! I much prefer this technique over simply doing a 4-finger finger knit, as the resulting 'fabric' will be a bit denser, with less stretch than the traditional finger knitting. You really do not want too much stretch on long scarves like these. Since all balls of yarn are not created equal, there will some variation from scarf to scarf. The ones pictures here are from left to right...Bernat Bling Bling in "Moulin Rouge", Bernat Bling Bling in "Night Club", Lion Brand Fancy Fur in "Tiger Eye", and Lion Brand Festive Fur, in a colorway I can't locate, LOL. They make super quick and easy last minute gifts. My eldest dd likes to make these for her friends on their birthdays.
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Friday, June 27, 2008
Waste not, want not...Fulling and felting
I hate wasteing anything...I save every scrap of fabric, even the tiniest bit to add to stuffings. I also save every tiny bit of my wool yarn scraps. I keep a small bag in with my knitting and crochet supplies, and whenever I need to trim ends, I stick them in the bag. After a year of knitting and crocheting, I have quite a bit. A few nights ago, I sat down and started going through the odds and ends (while watching a late night movie). I took the longer pieces and spliced them together, and took the shorter pieces and seperated them into fibers in a little bowl. Once I had all of the pieces either spliced or seperated, I set the bowl of fibers aside and set to work on a little freeform crochet. I wanted to make a little bag, but since I really had no idea how much yarn I had, played it all by feel. I crocheted the bag about 4 inches in diameter and about 7 inches high in SC, added a final row in 2DC, CH1(skip 1)2DC around the top for a drawstring, added a chained loop at the back, and sc'd around the loop for added stability. I secured it really well, bound off, wove ends. In the morning I tossed it in the washer and dryer with a load of clothes to full. The final dimensions are 3 inches in diameter by 4 inches tall.I had to reopen the drawstring holes a little bit with a knitting needle in order to weave through the braided drawstrings, and I stretched the back loop out a bit with a larger knitting needle so it would more easily fit on a belt or Mei Tei strap. I can't wait to use it!
With the fibers...I dumped the whole lot into a large rectangular plastic storage container, made sure that the fibers were spread out to roughly the same thickness, added a dribble of baby shampoo and some hot water, adding more water bit by bit as need, I basically patted the fibers together, flipping the "fabric" and patting until they really began to felt together, I added a bit more hot water to heat the fibers up a bit, squeezed out some of the excess water, then placed the "fabric" on a bamboo mat on a towel, and rolled and pressed, rolled and pressed, adding more hot water to heat it back up every now and then. After about 15 min of this process I had a very unique and durable piece of felt. I wanted to do something a litle different with it, so I set it aside. While playing on Ravelry, I was inspired by a collection of crocheted mushrooms...Playing off of that inspiration, I cut, stitched, and stuffed...even added a few button 'spots'. I had some little trimmings left, which I felted into a small ball...the perfect baby mushroom ;) Zero waste on this project, lol. I took a flat river rock, painted it with a couple of different shades of green, then hot glued my pincushion mushroom, and the baby mushroom ball to the top...isn't it cute?? It was put into immediate use, lol...there are always stray pins and sewing needles floating around, lol.
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With the fibers...I dumped the whole lot into a large rectangular plastic storage container, made sure that the fibers were spread out to roughly the same thickness, added a dribble of baby shampoo and some hot water, adding more water bit by bit as need, I basically patted the fibers together, flipping the "fabric" and patting until they really began to felt together, I added a bit more hot water to heat the fibers up a bit, squeezed out some of the excess water, then placed the "fabric" on a bamboo mat on a towel, and rolled and pressed, rolled and pressed, adding more hot water to heat it back up every now and then. After about 15 min of this process I had a very unique and durable piece of felt. I wanted to do something a litle different with it, so I set it aside. While playing on Ravelry, I was inspired by a collection of crocheted mushrooms...Playing off of that inspiration, I cut, stitched, and stuffed...even added a few button 'spots'. I had some little trimmings left, which I felted into a small ball...the perfect baby mushroom ;) Zero waste on this project, lol. I took a flat river rock, painted it with a couple of different shades of green, then hot glued my pincushion mushroom, and the baby mushroom ball to the top...isn't it cute?? It was put into immediate use, lol...there are always stray pins and sewing needles floating around, lol.
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Friday, June 20, 2008
Dalmation Minkee pocket diaper
I love Minkee! it is soooo soft and cozy, and makes the sweetest diapers! I was able to scrounge up just enough elastic to work up one more pocket (REALLY need to go to the fabric store!) Isn't it adorable?
closed, the outside, and the inside...the big improvement to my design there is the addition of the inner gussets...they add a few extra steps to construction, but make a huge difference!
and here is my darling boy modeling my work...it is still a bit big on him, but that just gives room to grow in :) Pin It
closed, the outside, and the inside...the big improvement to my design there is the addition of the inner gussets...they add a few extra steps to construction, but make a huge difference!
and here is my darling boy modeling my work...it is still a bit big on him, but that just gives room to grow in :) Pin It
Monday, June 9, 2008
Mama cloth...reusable tampons
Ok...I know some of you might think I'm nuts. Maybe I am, LOL. I continue to try and find as many ways to cut unneeded spending and reduce the amount of waste that we as a family contribute to the landfills as I can. I figure every little bit helps. We live just a few miles from our local landfill, and I am appalled by the number of garbage trucks, not to mention private vehicles, that go down our road every day headed to the dump. I was intrigued by the idea here http://www.borntolove.com/d-list7-make.shtml of reusable tampons...I really hate pads...I haven't tried cloth pads (I plan on making a bunch for my older girls though, as they are now at the age to need them...eegads!!), but I had a bit of a brainstorm...I had some scraps of organic hemp/organic cotton fleece leftover from making a sling and some diaper doublers for my son(I seriously hate to throw out even the littlest bits)...I cut rectangles about 2 1/2 by 3 1/2 inches, stacked two together and attached the layers as well as a strip of ribbon yarn together using an overlock stitch. I cut the tails of the ribbon about 4 inches long, and at the moment they are in the wash getting 'fluffed'...more to come...
The rectangles of hemp/cotton fleece pinned to the ribbon yarn.
After they were washed and dried, they look like they will work really well...they roll up pretty easily, and since the layers were not sewn all the way around, they will wash and dry super easy. These also have the added benefit over the idea linked above (which is genious, btw) of the ribbon for easier extraction.
I found a cute little drawstring bag to store them in...
It is interesting to hear that I am not alone in my nutso-ness...I was given this link by a fellow crafty mama to a whole (LONG) discussion on the topic, and various alternatives...http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=82588.0 Which, of course, got me thinking, and playing around with a little organic cotton yarn (the brand escapes me, as the label has disappeared). I took off on one of the ideas that was discussed on the above thread for a drawstring style knit tampon...I cast on 13 stitches with a 2 tail cast on, size 4 dpn's, worsted weight cotton, and knit in the round for 16 rows, then bound off by slipping all of the stitches onto a tapestry needles like you would with a hat (just a very very tiny hat, LOL), I then ran a piece of yarn through the cast on row for a drawstring
I stuffed this one with cotton balls, just to see how it looked...
Then I had another brainstorm...combine the knitting aspect with my original easy clean roll up idea...again on size 4...this time a 12" circular...same worsted weight cotton...I cast on 20 sts, knit stockinette for 16 rows, bound off 18, knit an I cord for 4 rows, bound off, and left a long tail. Easy peasy, and becasue of stockinettes natural tendency to curl, it rolls up super easy!
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The rectangles of hemp/cotton fleece pinned to the ribbon yarn.
After they were washed and dried, they look like they will work really well...they roll up pretty easily, and since the layers were not sewn all the way around, they will wash and dry super easy. These also have the added benefit over the idea linked above (which is genious, btw) of the ribbon for easier extraction.
I found a cute little drawstring bag to store them in...
It is interesting to hear that I am not alone in my nutso-ness...I was given this link by a fellow crafty mama to a whole (LONG) discussion on the topic, and various alternatives...http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=82588.0 Which, of course, got me thinking, and playing around with a little organic cotton yarn (the brand escapes me, as the label has disappeared). I took off on one of the ideas that was discussed on the above thread for a drawstring style knit tampon...I cast on 13 stitches with a 2 tail cast on, size 4 dpn's, worsted weight cotton, and knit in the round for 16 rows, then bound off by slipping all of the stitches onto a tapestry needles like you would with a hat (just a very very tiny hat, LOL), I then ran a piece of yarn through the cast on row for a drawstring
I stuffed this one with cotton balls, just to see how it looked...
Then I had another brainstorm...combine the knitting aspect with my original easy clean roll up idea...again on size 4...this time a 12" circular...same worsted weight cotton...I cast on 20 sts, knit stockinette for 16 rows, bound off 18, knit an I cord for 4 rows, bound off, and left a long tail. Easy peasy, and becasue of stockinettes natural tendency to curl, it rolls up super easy!
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Wednesday, June 4, 2008
My first Minkee pocket!
First...I LOVE my new sewing machine...I was able to whip out 2 of these beauties (before I ran out of elastic, and they have polar fleece hidden layers because I haven't gotten my PUL yet), and they are just YUMMY!! My ds is only 2 1/2 mos old, but he loves these dipes! It is so funny to see him 'petting' his dipe, LOL. I think I may make the rest with a bit of a higher rise and longer tabs, but I am really happy with the overall design. Too bad it took me 6 years to figure out my pattern, LOL. Making changes one by one over the years, I think I have hit on the best overall design, and fabric combinations. This Minkee stuff is sooo soft
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Monday, June 2, 2008
My new sewing machine!
Oh boy oh boy oh boy!! I have got to send out the biggest THANK YOU to my darling hubby's aunt Linda...she ordered me a new sewing machine, and it just arrived...HOLY COW...this is going to be fun...I have a TON of new techniques to learn, this thing has WAY more than the 3 stitches my old machine has. I've only had time to try it out on a couple of straight seams, but it sews those gourgeously! I'm so excited It even does overlock stitch, so I don't even need to keep shopping for a serger...at least not right now, LOL.
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Sunday, June 1, 2008
Recycled sweater wrap
I had an old wool sweater that I never wear lying around....I took one of the wraps I already have and used it as a pattern. I lined the top of the wrap up with the waistband of the sweater and cut through both layers...giving me 2 new wraps. I crocheted a boarder and buttonholes around the cut edge (Peace Fleece Volgasippi Blue), put on 2 rows of buttons, and voila! I still have the second one to work on tonight once the little ones are down.
eta>>> I was finally able to finish the second wrap...this one is edged in Peace Fleece Sheplova Mushroom.
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eta>>> I was finally able to finish the second wrap...this one is edged in Peace Fleece Sheplova Mushroom.
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My new knit soaker
pattern is coming along...this is the second workup of the design, and I think with a couple more tweeks here and there, it will be ready to share!
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Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Playsilks!!
I got the playsilks I ordered for the little ones today...
They arrived individually wrapped and plain white...
The girls had a blast opening all of the packages and stuffing them in the vinegar/water bath to soak.
We went to town dying...we used leftover easter egg dyes for some of them, and drink mixes (kool-aid, etc.) for the rest, with the stovetop method....basically throw a few packets of mix, a glug of vinegar and a few cups of water in a large pot, heat it up, toss in a silk or two, submerge in the dye, and stir for a few minutes while the color soaks into the silk, then pull it off the heat when all or most of the color is in the silk, and rinse in cool water until it runs clear, wring out, and hang outside. Later I will give them a wash and dry in the machine to set the colors well. I couldn't find my gloves, so my hands got a good dying too, LOL
And now my girlies have a fun new activity!!
The nice neat pile didn't last much longer than it took me to snap the pic, LOL...I knew that they would have a blast with these!
ETA>>>
Reilly really took to them...
And so did Mady...
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They arrived individually wrapped and plain white...
The girls had a blast opening all of the packages and stuffing them in the vinegar/water bath to soak.
We went to town dying...we used leftover easter egg dyes for some of them, and drink mixes (kool-aid, etc.) for the rest, with the stovetop method....basically throw a few packets of mix, a glug of vinegar and a few cups of water in a large pot, heat it up, toss in a silk or two, submerge in the dye, and stir for a few minutes while the color soaks into the silk, then pull it off the heat when all or most of the color is in the silk, and rinse in cool water until it runs clear, wring out, and hang outside. Later I will give them a wash and dry in the machine to set the colors well. I couldn't find my gloves, so my hands got a good dying too, LOL
And now my girlies have a fun new activity!!
The nice neat pile didn't last much longer than it took me to snap the pic, LOL...I knew that they would have a blast with these!
ETA>>>
Reilly really took to them...
And so did Mady...
Sunday, March 16, 2008
He's here!
At last our little boy Aidan Miguel is here! He arrived on 3/12/08 at 8:17pm, weighing 7 lbs 15.3 oz, and 19 inches long! He is a beautiful addition to our family, and we couldn't be happier. Now for him to grow into all of the lovlies that mama has spent so much time creating for him!
our litte Aidan, all ready to go home....
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